Brookland Park Market: A Neighborhood Gem

by Anne Jones 04.2021

After this unthinkable year of extreme take-out dining, I was ready to try something new, and I remembered the many enthusiastic recommendations from several friends about Brookland Park, starting last fall.

First glance at the menu and I’m already impressed. Two big salads (beet and Caesar), several sandwiches, and five entrees for dinner. I'm happy there's not an overwhelming number of choices, and the descriptions sound like everything is a specialty. There’s a fried chicken sandwich and a standard club, but also a vegan Gochujang Tofu Sandwich with vegan slaw and a garlic Gochujang marinade. Dinner entrees include the Rodeo Burger, General Tso’s Chicken, and also a Tofu bowl, so something for everyone, including Northern Neck crab cakes.

As a semi-vegetarian, I was thrilled to see Truffled Mushroom Fettucini on the menu, dreaming it would be along the lines of one of my favorite dinners on the planet—the wild mushroom tagliatelle at Enoteca Sogno in Bellevue. I found out from Sean, one of the Market owners, that it was, in fact, inspired by that very dish. And it was every bit as delicious, but with a higher mushroom count, I’m pretty sure.  The roasted shallots and mushrooms over fettucine were topped with a light truffle garlic cream sauce, emphasis on the “light.” This was no smothering heavy sauce, it was more a light drizzling of subtle flavors. The shallot and truffle merged exquisitely, and the overall effect was delicate and savory.

My friend who joined me for porch dining reported that his dinner of pork tenderloin was lightly breaded, perfectly seasoned, and thoroughly cooked, but not overcooked. He was mostly impressed by the tenderness of the cut. Accompanied by sauteed green beans that retained just the right amount of crunch, and the orzo with a cheesy sauce, it made for the perfect meal. 

Now that I'd found a new favorite place, take-out sandwiches for a lunch porch party were next on the agenda. E's roast beef sandwich with fontina cheese and caramelized onions brings the Philly cheesesteak to a whole new culinary level. The ribeye steak used in this creation would water the mouth of any carnivore or omnivore--it is lean and it is succulent, and perfectly tender. The onions, slightly sweet, work in lovely conjunction with the Dijon mustard. 

Stacked high with ham, turkey, bacon, cheddar cheese and topped with a dab of mayonnaise and layers of lettuce and tomatoes, M's club sandwich could easily feed two or even three. Both the ham and turkey are fresh, and that's the key to any successful club.  I went for the mushroom fare at lunch too. Named Kevin's Mushroom Melt, this sandwich was just one cheesy celebration of flavors - pickled red onion that was more sweet than tart, mild fontina cheese, fresh salad greens, and a big fat mushroom on ciabatta bread. 

Fries are listed on the menu as the only side - and a bag of fries is a large order. These are the best kind of fries - golden brown with soft interiors, and they call to mind the mainstay of Maryland and Delaware boardwalks, the legendary Thrasher's French fries deep-fried in peanut oil. 

Brothers Sean and Pat Lynch, and Sean's wife Esha opened the Market last August, 4—five months into the pandemic, a delay from the originally planned spring opening. It is a true market, too, with a good variety of Italian staples and treats, and a large selection of wine and drinks. For hours and online visit  https://brooklandparkmarket.com/ 

So add Brookland Park Market to your list of take-out favorites and don't miss out on this neighborhood treasure. Brookland Park, Ginter Park, Bellevue, Rosedale, Highland Park - we're all Northside neighbors who will find something to love at this place.