Excursion to Crabtree Falls

by Fayeruz Regan 05.2021

The global pandemic may have curbed parties and international fights, but it revitalized a true American pastime – the road trip. For all the blessings there were in spending more time at home, escaping the sameness of it all saves us from restlessness.

This past year, our family filled its calendar with trips to semi-remote places to avoid crowds. Lately, I’d been craving a good hike. Prior to our move to Richmond, I’d been spoiled by the mountainous terrain of California. I found Richmond to be relatively flat, save for Shockoe Bottom and some trails around the James River. Charlottesville seems to have the big hikes. I’m hoping a reader will prove me wrong.

For anyone seeking a springtime escape, I have the perfect suggestion: Crabtree Falls in Nelson County. We went for the waterfall hike, but lingered for all the other attractions in the area. Below I’ve listed a few must-see things along the way.

Don’t Fear the Reaper

Soon after exiting I-64 en route to the falls, you’ll pass a scene that seems straight out of Ireland. A grist mill from the 1700s sits atop rolling green hills and a winding stream. Made of stone and logs, it’s breathtaking and happens to be a U.S. Historic Landmark. Cyrus McCormick invented the reaper, which revolutionized American farming. Stroll through his farm on bridges over streams, see his basement workshop and keep an eye out for the resident tabby.

Kitschy Country Store

Before winding up mountain roads to get to the falls, you’ll encounter a handsome log cabin-style building. The Montebello Country Store is a dream pit stop. Taxidermy at every corner, and coffee. There’s a variety of Virginia-made fudge, honey sticks, “White Trash” Chex Mix and more. There’s a large hutch lined with mason jars, featuring Southern mainstays by the Montebello Country Store itself. From pickled beets to chow chow, peach salsa to homemade vinaigrettes – campers and locals alike came to stock up.

The Main Event

Crabtree Falls is a dramatic place. Before you even reach the trailhead, you encounter a small graveyard. The Fitzgeralds left no trace of their existence by Crabtree Falls, though the family of ten grew up in a log cabin overlooking the area in the mid-1800s. All that’s left are the graves of the parents Achilles and Mary Elizabeth “Betsy” Fitzgerald, and two of their daughters. Both their names were Mary; one of whom died at five, the other in infancy.

The waterfall itself seems never-ending. Upon entering, there’s a stunning drop where water crashes into a pool. But hike a little further, and you’ll see that yet another waterfall fed into the one you just passed. And yet another. Throughout the modest 1.7 mile hike, there are sweeping views of the falls at every turn. Along the way your trails are laced with giant ferns and bellflowers.

Something Fishy

Fish culturists Darren Poole & Richard Fitzgerald run the Montebello Fish Hatchery, just minutes down the road from Crabtree Falls. Built in 1930, visitors are welcome to come see their spring-fed system where they raise trout. And since trout swim upstream, you can watch them run through the hilly, built-in raceways.

Where to Eat

Depending on whether you stop to eat before or after your hike, Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie is off 64 between Louisa and your 118A Exit for Crabtree Falls. A place beloved by locals, it serves up a variety of what they call “alternative” pizzas, like the “Annie Oakley” which features buffalo chicken and pickled jalapenos. Or the “Lil Mermaid” with shrimp and homemade pesto sauce. But that’s not my reason for going. If you’re a fan of quality, homemade ranch dressing, they sell their addictive concoction by the pint and quart. If you leave without one, you will have wasted half the reason for going. Pack a cooler, buy at least a pint and thank me later.

Bring a camera

Words won’t do justice for the type of dilapidated beauty you will find. For all the natural beauty of winding roads and well-kept farmhouses, you’ll find forgotten structures that are just as intriguing. Abandoned churches with torn steeples against the backdrop of the Southwest Mountains. Boarded up train stops that are easily one hundred years old. We could not resist the urge to poke around where we probably shouldn’t have. Bring a camera and make sure it’s charged. Blink and you might miss something.

Happy trails.