Road Trip to Onancock: A Hallmark Movie Kind of Town

by Fayeruz Regan 02.2024

Joke all you want about the quality of Hallmark movies, but here’s a little secret: Fans know these films aren’t great. Rather, they watch for the comfort and escapism that emanates from the small towns and communities these films are set in.

Who wouldn’t want a simpler life, the way the characters in these films do? They happily walk down a Main Street of sorts, waving to the butcher, the baker, and the candlestick maker before opening their flower shop. How quaint. Notice these films never feature our uglier reality of sprawling suburbs, drive-thru lines, and crowded Wal-Mart parking lots. But do Hallmark movie towns actually exist?

The answer is yes, and it’s in Onancock, Virginia. Founded in 1608 as a harbor town, it’s nestled on the Eastern Shore. The proprietor of the Spinning Wheel Bed and Breakfast is the embodiment of a Hallmark movie character. Mr. Nolan cooks breakfast every morning for his guests in his historical home. Of course he has a dog. His band plays Celtic Irish music in local pubs, and he sometimes helps out at the local theatre. My friend and I told him that his life resembles a Hallmark movie. He smiled and said, “I get that all the time.”

Onancock: Getting there is half the fun

En route, you’ll cross the majestic Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Enjoy those views! Leave in the morning in order to stop by Cape Charles for lunch, which is just past the bridge. Enjoy window shopping on Mason Avenue, a walkable neighborhood with restaurants and galleries. 

Eat: Coastal Baking Co. is set in a quaint Cape Cod, with outdoor seating. They serve up inventive mile-high sandwiches, home-baked desserts, and espresso drinks, which can give you a lift for the last leg of your Onancock road trip. 

Shop: Drizzles is a specialty shop selling gourmet oils and vinegars. Basil oil and truffle oil are mainstays in my kitchen, but they take it a step further. They sell a garlic butter black truffle oil, and the prices were a steal. 

Onancock: The Best of the Best

Driving into Onancock, you’ll love the stately historical homes off the main road, Market Street, some of which offer tours. Water is all around you, and when you pull into town, you’ll see a lot of culture for such a small town – population 1,200. There’s a local theatre, a movie theatre, restaurants and specialty shops. 

Where to stay: You guessed it – The Spinning Wheel Bed and Breakfast. Due to the ridiculous rate surges on Airbnb, Mr. Nolan doesn’t use the platform. He keeps his rates honest and relies on reputation to bring folks to his website. Opt for the cozy rooms on the 3rd floor, with pitched ceilings. Breakfast is served in the dining room, filled with Titanic memorabilia. Built in 1890, it’s filled with antiques, rocking chairs on the front porch, a TV room, and a sweet pup to keep you company. 

Where to eat: Mallard’s on the Wharf has the freshest seafood in town, and is famous for their crabcakes. Depending on your seat, dinner may include a sunset over the water, and live music. The waiting area is a historical post office, and under the glass cases are shipping ledgers from the 1800s, old letters, and relics from Virginia’s earliest days. 

Where to shop: The Corner Bakery Cafe is so famous for their doughnuts, that travelers from as far as New York stop by for a box on their way through town. Many road-trippers use this route along the Eastern seaboard to avoid 95 – and they all seem to know about these doughnuts. Get there early! The treats are known to sell out fast. 

What to do: Hit up the North Street Playhouse to see a local play. In October, we got pulled in there by costumed actors to participate in free Halloween-themed fun and games. We left with handfuls of candy! They are a lively group. If it’s closed during your stay, take in a film at Roseland Theatre a few doors down. They play art house and international films too!

Visit: While in Onancock, we drove to nearby Assateague Island to look for the flamingoes that had been blown off course by Hurricane Idalia. They had become local celebrities! Alas, no sighting, but we saw a few wild horses, and that’s no small thing.

If you want to feel immersed in a real-life Hallmark movie, now you know where to go. Happy trails!