The Byways of Madison County

by Fayeruz Regan 05.2026

One might assume that a small town in the Shenandoah mountains would be sleepy, but don't let Google Maps fool you.

Madison County, Virginia is filled with spirit. Crowned by the Blue Ridge Mountains, its hilly, well-appointed farmland evokes old England. The curved byways hide cultural gems.  I will lay out the route and recommendations that made this road trip so memorable.

First stop: The fried chicken capital of the world

From Richmond, take I-64 west and exit at Gordonsville, the fried chicken capital of the world. In the late 1800s Black female entrepreneurs, known as “waiter carriers” would fry chicken and sell it through train windows when passengers were stopped. Fried chicken became so popular, that trains would re-route to pass through Gordonsville. With the profits, the waiter carriers were able to buy property, and in some cases, their freedom. Because of these women, fried chicken became a Southern staple.

To honor Gordonsville's heritage, The Ice House downtown sells cold beer and fried chicken. There's an outdoor area for live music under stringed lights. Chicken memorabilia was abundant. We were serenaded by an acoustic set as we tucked into the old-style fried chicken with homemade biscuits and seasonal vegetables.

And from here, it's all country roads to Madison, Virginia.

Where to stay: Madison Vines

As a travel enthusiast, it's difficult to circumvent Airbnb when searching for unique places to stay. There's a growing boycott in response to their illegal rental properties on occupied Palestinian land, and I try to support businesses that match my values. Years ago, the only properties thriving outside of Airbnb were the well-established inns that pre-dated the internet. But every year that goes by, more and more properties are listing outside of Airbnb to avoid the exorbitant fees. And the savings are passed down to travelers. 

One booked property owner told me to try Madison Vines, an RV park. I mentioned we don't have an RV and know nothing of that world. But she insisted they had charming, Amish-style cottages as well. They weren't wrong! Our cozy wood cabin had state-of-the-art technology, was spotless, and over looked the community's pool, hot tub, billiards, and multiple restaurants on site. It was walkable, everyone was friendly, and at night, the hills were alight with bonfires and laughter. This award-winning resort has been placed in the top one percent of all 7,000 campgrounds in the U.S.

What to eat

This whole trip was built around a birthday dinner at The Bavarian Chef, a family-owned German restaurant that opened in 1974. Over 50 years later, the gorgeous, two-story restaurant evokes Southern Germany. Inside, the dark wooden interiors are aglow in candlelight. The portions are beyond generous, the pretzels big and soft, and guests share family-style sides. The servers are in traditional Oktoberfest regalia, busting out of their bodices and plunking down beer steins the size of a small country.

What to do

Circle H at Graves Mountain Farm: It doesn't get any better than this place, thanks to Joey and Casey Haynes. With the purple haze backdrop of the Shenandoah Mountains, the equestrian stables offer affordable Western-style riding to first-timers as young as 8. The ride takes you through breathtaking mountain views, where the trail guide takes keepsake quality photos of people astride their horses, for free. Unfussy yet professional, guests here are welcome to pet the horses, and I was allowed to roam the handsome stables. I came across some very talkative goats and a precious baby cow with eyes as big as saucers.

Yoder's Country Market: This Mennonite-owned country market is more than a place to stock up on homemade candy, soup mixes and baked goods. It's a destination location, complete with a petting zoo. You can get up close and personal with goats, pigs and other farm animals. But the offerings also lean toward the exotic, with peacocks – even the white variety! They sell feed, and even have a pulley system to deliver feed to the goats sitting on high ledges, built just for them. Yoder’s also features a robust playground, a cafe where you can eat freshly-made sandwiches, and handmade Amish and Mennonite furniture – either for purchase or a nice place to sit and enjoy your meal.

Antiquing: Show up early – in agricultural communities, folks rise and set with the sun. One store, set in an 1800's-era post office, closed at 2pm. But you will find many offerings, such as Black Cat Antiques, Great Deals!, and Miss Patties House-Antiques.

Happy trails!